Week Two in Alvor, Algarve: Tavira, Ferragudo, Praia da Luz & the Carvoeiro Cliffs
- Katie Durie
- Mar 16
- 6 min read
Updated: Apr 2
During our second week in Alvor in the Algarve, we explored nearby towns like Tavira, Ferragudo, Praia da Luz and Carvoeiro, while continuing to enjoy the quiet winter atmosphere of this charming fishing village. Week two in Alvor also brought something no one expects in the Algarve: storm after storm.
Portugal experienced unusually cloudy, windy, and rainy weather, with back-to-back storms causing flooding in several regions. While this kind of weather isn’t typical for the Algarve in February, it did reinforce our one important rule:
If you leave the house, bring an umbrella.
Despite the dramatic skies, we refused to let the weather dictate our experience. Rainy days simply meant longer meals, cozy restaurants, and slower exploring. And whenever the sun briefly appeared, we were right back outside—sometimes even lounging by the pool in our t-shirts.
Even in unsettled weather, the Algarve has a way of drawing you in.
Embracing the Quiet Beauty of Alvor, Algarve
One of the unexpected joys of week two was how empty the beaches remained.
Many visitors stayed away because of the wind and unpredictable weather, but with a good windproof jacket, we found the beach walks incredibly pleasant. In fact, we were truly never cold. And there is something incredibly special about walking along a beach where your footprints are the only ones in the sand.
When hiking trails became muddy or inaccessible, the Alvor boardwalk and beach paths became our daily go-to. These wooden walkways stretch through the estuary and dunes, offering wide open views of the coastline and plenty of space to walk even on damp days.
Between storms, we also found ourselves appreciating the little details of Portugal — the colorful ceramic tiles decorating buildings and the surprising number of flowers already in bloom, even in February.
Cozy Meals on Rainy Days
Rainy days in Portugal seem perfectly suited for long, lingering meals.
One of our favorites this week was dinner at The Phoenix, a cozy British-style pub in Alvor with exceptionally friendly staff. The atmosphere was warm and welcoming — exactly what you want after a windy coastal walk.
The curry was excellent, and the Yorkshire pudding felt like classic comfort food.
Sometimes bad weather simply gives you a reason to slow down and enjoy meals a little longer.
A Dramatic Coastal Hike Near Carvoeiro
One of our biggest outings this week was a drive to Carvoeiro to explore some of the Algarve’s most famous coastal formations.
From town, we followed the Carvoeiro Boardwalk, which leads to the dramatic rock formations of Algar Seco. Wooden paths and stairways wind through honey-colored limestone cliffs, revealing arches, tunnels, and small grottoes carved by centuries of Atlantic waves.
One of the most interesting formations here is Boneca Cave (A Boneca)—often called “The Doll Cave.” Small openings in the rock frame the ocean like natural windows, creating one of the most photographed viewpoints along the coast. Unfortunately, due to weather conditions we weren't able to access it—so it's on our bucket list for next year!
Even on a cloudy day, the views of the rugged cliffs and crashing waves were spectacular.
A Visit to Praia da Luz
We also drove to Praia da Luz, a village we had strongly considered before choosing Alvor for our month in Portugal.
Luz is undeniably beautiful and very well maintained. The streets are spotless, the buildings are bright white, and the small church overlooking the village is lovely. Like much of Portugal, everything felt remarkably clean and well cared for.
The village has a more manicured feel than Alvor, and the beach is stunning.
However, during our visit it felt very quiet, with fewer restaurants and shops open compared to Alvor. In perfect weather this might not matter, but during stormy periods when outdoor activities are limited, having more options open in town makes a difference.
It confirmed for us that Alvor had been the right choice for us.
We had also hoped to stop at Fortaleza da Luz, an iconic seaside restaurant built into the old fort overlooking the beach. Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit—something we’ll definitely try again next time.
Ferragudo: One of the Algarve’s Prettiest Villages
Another highlight of the week was a visit to Ferragudo, often described as one of the prettiest villages in the Algarve.
I absolutely loved it.
Ferragudo sits along the Arade River, and the village feels authentic and lived-in rather than resort-like. From the small village square filled with cafés and restaurants, narrow streets climb uphill past colorful homes and older buildings that are slowly being restored.
My husband thought parts of it felt a little run-down, but I found it incredibly charming and full of character.
The village reminded me a bit of Lisbon, with its hills and staircases.
From the center you can walk toward Praia da Angrinha, a small beach along the river, and continue farther to the larger Praia Grande. Overlooking Praia Grande is the historic Fort of São João do Arade, a 17th-century coastal fortress built to help defend the entrance to Portimão’s harbor.
At the top of the village sits the beautiful Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, a white church with sweeping views over the river and coastline.
The views alone make the climb worthwhile.
Visitors Arrive… and Bring the Sunshine
Toward the end of week two, friends arrived to join us—and they seemed to bring the sunshine with them.
We loved showing them around Alvor, and they immediately fell in love with the village.
They started joking (?) about winter retirement plans, imagining returning each year and watching Alvor transition from its quiet winter rhythm—when many restaurants and beach clubs are closed — to the lively atmosphere of June when everything is fully reopened.
They even braved the unheated pool.
A Day Trip to Tavira (With an Unexpected Food Highlight)
One of our longest drives of the week took us east to Tavira, with a stop along the way in the small fishing village of Santa Luzia.
Santa Luzia is known as the “octopus capital of the Algarve,” but our highlight was something simpler: toasties.
A toastie is a grilled sandwich — similar to a panini — often filled with cheese, ham, tuna, or other simple ingredients and pressed until perfectly crisp.
We stumbled upon a small café where toasties were just €4 including fries, and they ended up being the best we had during the entire month.
Sadly we didn’t note the café’s name, but next time we visit Santa Luzia we’ll absolutely be searching for it again.
Before reaching Tavira, we also stopped at the Salinas de Tavira (Quatro Águas salt pans) where we were lucky enough to spot flamingos feeding in the shallow lagoons.
Exploring Tavira
Tavira felt noticeably busier than anywhere we had visited so far.
Many restaurants and shops were open, and the town had a lively atmosphere with street musicians playing along the famous Roman bridge that crosses the Gilão River.
While the boys spent the day golfing, my friend and I wandered through town—shopping, exploring, and enjoying lunch along the river.
Tavira is incredibly charming, with:
palm-lined gardens along the waterfront
colorful fishing boats in the river
a small castle and park overlooking the town
and narrow streets filled with traditional Portuguese architecture
It was easily the most bustling place we’d visited since arriving in the Algarve.
Week Two Takeaway
Week two of our winter in the Algarve proved that even when it's famous sunshine takes a break, the region still delivers.
Stormy skies led to empty beaches, cozy meals, charming villages, and unexpected discoveries.
And sometimes, those quiet, windswept beach walks—where the only footprints in the sand are your own—end up becoming the most memorable moments of all.
Interested in reading about our first week in Alvor? Check out: Week One in Alvor, Portugal: Touchdown & Our First Days
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