Week One in Alvor, Portugal: Touchdown & Our First Days
- Katie Durie
- Mar 9
- 5 min read
We landed in Lisbon after a seven‑hour flight—two carry‑ons, a checked bag, and golf clubs in oversize. Luggage pickup was surprisingly fast, and before we knew it we were sipping coffee with that first excited buzz of “We’re really here” while waiting for our car rental agency to open.
We were set to pick up our rental from Centauro and it couldn’t have gone smoother: for about €350 we had an automatic Nissan Juke with full collision insurance, a toll transponder, a free second driver, zero deposit, and zero fuss. Then, we headed towards the A2 with minimal traffic, enjoying a smooth and effortless journey straight from the gate.
As we crossed the Vasco da Gama Bridge, the tide was out in the wide estuary below, and people were out clamming—a charming little scene that felt like an instant introduction to coastal Portugal. The weather was grey and drizzly, but the drive through the gentle hills of the Alejandro mountains was beautiful, quiet, and peaceful—so peaceful that we decided to stop partway through at Alcácer do Sal to get some fresh air and stretch our legs.
Driving down a very narrow, cobblestone side street, we found a parking spot along the river. From there we walked up to the castle and toured inside, soaking in early views of the Alentejo countryside. The village felt like time had paused—authentic, lovely, and almost untouched, a snapshot of rural Portuguese life. (Just a few days later, severe storms would flood parts of Alcácer do Sal, with people needing rescue—situations like that make you appreciate calm travel moments even more.)
By 12:30 pm we were at our villa in Alvor, settled in, and eager to explore. Alvor’s beach—Praia de Alvor—is about a 5‑minute walk from the center of town, a long stretch of soft, golden sand backed by dunes and beautiful views of the Atlantic. It’s part of a Blue Flag beach that runs about 2 km (over a mile) from the river mouth toward Praia dos Três Irmãos. Unlike nearby beaches with dramatic cliffs and rocks, this one is gentle and open, perfect for long strolls and soaking in that first sea breeze.
From the beach we wandered along the boardwalk toward the harbor, past the active fishing buildings, boats moored in neat rows, and restaurants lining the promenade—a scene that perfectly blends an old‑school fishing village with the relaxed rhythm of a seaside town. Alvor, Portugal was immediately feeling like home.
Back at the villa, our first mission was getting groceries. We popped into the local Pingo Doce, which quickly became our favourite grocery store. We were happy to find fresh produce, cheese, and wine at great prices, and most of the items we wanted were here. (€3–€4 for good wine was a delightful bonus!)
By the next morning we had slipped into our very easy Alvor routine. Coffee (and sometimes a pastel de nata) from our favourite pastelaria, Confeitaria D'Alvor, became a frequent part of our morning ritual. Then out for one of our daily walks—usually 5–7 km along the boardwalk and beach. The Alvor Boardwalk (Passadiços de Alvor) is a gorgeous wooden elevated path that winds along the Ria de Alvor Nature Reserve and dunes, offering expansive views of salt marshes, birds, and tranquil water as you go. It’s also stroller‑friendly and well used by locals and expats alike.
Some days we’d find ourselves heading all the way toward Praia dos Três Irmãos, a string of connected coves with dramatic rock formations and secret caves that are just deliciously fun to explore. At low tide you can walk between the coves, climb around natural arches, and poke into little grottoes carved by the Atlantic waves.
The first week was a mix of weather—lots of rain mixed with sunny spells. So we adopted a rule early on: never leave the villa without our umbrellas. And we embraced it. Whether sunshine or drizzle, we were out and exploring and always made the most of a rainy Algarve day.
We found that only about half of the town's shops and restaurants were open, but we didn't know if it was due to the weather or winter hours. But as the weeks went on, more places opened, and we loved watching the village come alive again. Before arriving, we weren't sure if dining outside was possible in February, but patios were jam-packed every day from around 11 until dusk. Even with only half of them operating, there was plenty to choose from!
Afternoons often took us a little further out. Our first proper outing was to Aqua Portimão Shopping Centre—an indoor/outdoor mall that became a kind of lifesaver for warm clothes. Our villa, beautiful as it was, had been empty for weeks and not well heated. So cold floors and cooler evenings meant warm socks, slippers, and wool sweaters were essential. Many of these we found at Primark inside the mall—which felt both funny and deeply necessary: wearing warm clothes inside and then peeling layers off outside! (Check out: The Inside-Out Winter: What I Wish I’d Known About the Algarve in February)
While in Portimão we wandered down to the old town waterfront—a lovely working port with busy boats and a very Portuguese energy that I loved. A beautiful promenade, quiet in the winter, lined the harbour. The waterfront benches provided the perfect place to sit, relax, reflect, and enjoy the February sunshine.
Our next mini adventure brought us to Lagos for shopping. It was quiet—so much so that Alvor actually seemed to have more stores and restaurants open at that moment. Lagos, with its ancient walls, cobbled historic streets, and beautiful marina, was still breathtaking. The town’s renowned beaches like Praia do Camilo, Praia do Pinhão, Praia dos Estudantes, and our favourite Praia Dona Ana were all classic Algarve: dramatic limestone, soft sand, and pristine water.
A third outing took us inland to Silves, a charming historic town anchored by its large red sandstone castle—one of the most significant Moorish fortifications in the region. We were treated to expansive views over the countryside from the castle, and exploring its walls felt like a journey back in time. The town itself was busier than we expected, which was a delightful surprise (though parking was tricky—stick to the big lot on the outskirts to avoid narrow streets).
Evenings were often spent at our favourite local restaurant, Sereia, where the Salmón En Salsa de Langostinos and codfish dishes stole the show. Dining there felt like a true taste of Portugal, it was a popular spot and deliciously satisfying after long, active days.
Our first few days in Alvor gave us a chance to settle in, explore the village, and start getting a feel for daily life here. Before diving into more details, here are a few of our first impressions.
First Impressions of Alvor, Portugal (Week One)
Friendly, walkable town—felt local, not touristy
The beach is soft, expansive, and easily accessible from town
The boardwalk is scenic and stroller-friendly, great for long walks
Restaurants and shops: half open initially, but plenty to choose from
Favourite pastelaria: Confeitaria D'Alvor for pastel de nata
Favourite grocery store: Pingo Doce—best prices and selection
Favourite restaurant: Sereia—Salmón En Salsa de Langostinos & codfish
Groceries: much cheaper than in Canada, wine for €3–€4
Villa: lovely but needed warm clothes due to cooler floors
Weather: mix of rain and sun; umbrellas essential
Nearby towns: Lagos and Silves were perfect day trips for shopping, history, and beaches
Unexpected delights: clamming on the Vasco da Gama Bridge, secret caves at Praia dos Três Irmãos, historic Alcácer do Sal
Comments