Week Four in Alvor, Portugal in February: The Kind of Trip That Stays With You
- Katie Durie
- Mar 29
- 4 min read
We knew our time in Alvor was coming to an end — we just didn’t expect it to feel so sudden.
A month felt like it would be long. In reality, it passed quickly, and by our final week, we found ourselves looking back at just how much had changed.
When we arrived, the weather had been unseasonably wet and windy. The town was quiet, with many places still closed for the season.
By our last week in Alvor, Portugal in February, we were wearing bathing suits, spending afternoons on the beach, and watching the town come fully back to life.
It felt like we had experienced three seasons in one trip—winter, spring, and a glimpse of summer.
The Rhythm We Fell Into
Some of the best parts of this final week were the simplest.
Mornings began with coffee and something sweet, followed by a walk along the boardwalk and beach—a routine that quickly became our favourite part of the day.
When our usual café closed for the week, we tried somewhere new: Pastelaria Perini.
It was always busy, mostly with locals. Despite the language barrier, we encountered kindness, smiles, and a genuine sense of welcome. The coffee was excellent, the pastries even better, and it became an effortless addition to our routine.
When we return, we’ll happily rotate between the two.
Evenings We Didn’t Want to End
As the winds eased and the skies cleared, the sunsets became something we looked forward to every day.
Deep blue skies fading into almost fluorescent orange—the kind of colour that doesn’t quite feel real.
Most evenings ended with a walk along the beach. Clear skies, stars overhead, and the steady sound of waves reaching the shore.
Simple, but unforgettable.
A Different Side of Alvor
This week, we explored beyond the familiar boardwalk and beaches and found a quieter, lesser-known side of Alvor.
Following the inland river trail along the estuary, everything felt still and calm — a contrast to the open coastline.
We watched birds fishing in the shallow water, including a white heron (or possibly a stork) catching its meal. The trail wound through low hills and along the water, with interpretive signs explaining the local plants, flowers, birds, and insects.
Along the way, we passed ruins, a small cave, and eventually reached a dam. The descent was steep—a rope helped guide the way— but it added a sense of adventure.
From the bridge, the view back toward Alvor was completely different, and just as beautiful.
A Town Waking Up
By now, Alvor felt fully awake.
Restaurants and shops had reopened, and there was a noticeable shift in energy. The only places still closed appeared to be under renovation — a reminder that this is the season of preparation before the busy summer months.
It made us curious about what Alvor must feel like at its peak.
A Return to Lagos
We made one more trip to Lagos and returned to a favourite restaurant: Guanabana.
The guacamole—topped with pomegranates and toasted pumpkin seeds— was just as good as we remembered.
We were also excited to hear that a location is opening soon in Alvor.
This visit also came with a small decision we had been putting off—buying a cork handbag. The colours and styles seem to evolve every year, and this one, dyed a deep black, felt like the right choice.
The Lagos to Luz Hike
One of the highlights of our final week in Alvor, Portugal in February was the coastal hike from Lagos to Luz—part of the Fishermen’s Trail.
It's often called one of the world's most beautiful coastal trails, and it lives up to that.
The 11–12 km route (about 3–4 hours) takes you past some of the Algarve’s most iconic landscapes:
Ponta da Piedade
Praia do Camilo
Porto de Mós Beach
Cliffs, beaches, wide ocean views — it never really lets up.
One of the most striking moments was seeing Rocha Negra from above. The dark volcanic rock against the bright blue water and golden cliffs felt almost surreal.
The final descent into Praia da Luz is steep, but manageable with care and good footwear.
We ended at the promenade with sangria and lunch—well earned—before taking an Uber (approx. €12 ) back to Lagos.
Beach Days in February
Afternoons were often spent at the beach—something we hadn’t fully expected when planning a February trip.
There were always a few people in the water, including my husband, who described it as “brisk and refreshing.” I stayed on the sand.
By our final day, it was actually hot.
We also noticed more wildlife, including the striking Iberian magpie, with its soft grey body and flashes of blue in its wings and tail.
A Final Meal to Remember
Our last dinner in Alvor was at Trattoria L’Allegria.
Small, warm, and welcoming — the kind of place that feels easy the moment you walk in.
Fresh pasta, incredible gnocchi, bruschetta, good wine, and kind service. A complimentary glass of port arrived with the bill, a simple but thoughtful touch.
It felt like the right way to end the month.
Leaving Alvor (and Already Thinking About Returning)
On our final day, we picked lemons straight from a tree and made fresh lemonade to take with us on the drive back to Lisbon.
It felt like a small moment that somehow captured the whole experience.
Leaving wasn’t easy. We weren’t ready.
But we’re already thinking about what we’d do next time:
Explore more of the coastline between Praia dos Três Irmãos and Praia da Rocha—especially at low tide when hidden coves and natural pathways appear
Look for tide pools near Alvor (we’ve heard there are some nearby where octopus can sometimes be spotted)
Visit Benagil Cave by boat
Hike from Luz to Burgau
Take a day trip to Olhão
And without question, we would repeat both the Seven Hanging Valleys hike and the Lagos to Luz hike.
Final Thoughts on Week Four in Alvor, Portugal in February
We didn’t expect to love Alvor as much as we did.
But we did.
And now, it’s a place we know we’ll return to.
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